York is divided by a beautiful river, so there are few opportunities to dine by the river.
Pubs and restaurants line the cobblestones beside King's Staithes, the City Screen complex has terraces, Dill's small cafe/bar on Skeldergate, and The Tank above. & Paddle (formerly The Living Room) has an outdoor veranda. Queen's Stace.
You can (and highly recommend) sitting outside the Parky Peacock, right next to Rendall Bridge and York City Rowing Club.
But the one that definitely tops them all is Star in the City, which sits on the edge of the Museum Gardens and has a spectacular outdoor seating area overlooking the River Ouse (and directly opposite Parky Peacock!).
We made our reservation online. You can specify whether you want to sit outdoors or indoors.
The weather forecast was great and it was a true Indian summer night so we confidently opted for an outdoor table.
There were only two of us, and we were very happy to have a table at the end of the terrace, with views over the pristine riverside. We started with aperitifs while considering the menu, but were told that under coronavirus restrictions, the menus would not be used again and we could take them away.
This is a limited menu. As regular readers of this column will know, this menu gets a lot of attention in my book. Printed on both sides of A4, the first page offers a selection of small plates, snacks, salads and appetizers. The full page features more extensive dishes, including a 'Starlet' selection for children under 10 years of age. Desserts can also fit into this double page spread.
Just because we have a limited menu doesn't mean we offer a boring menu. Anything else. Regardless, work is anything but boring for Andrew Pern, the famous North Yorkshire chef behind this business. Remember all the fuss over Star's flat cap bread basket? Well, that was nowhere to be seen on our visit.
We were looked after for the evening by a polite and friendly young waiter wearing a face mask. He was charming but got our order wrong. Twice. This was quickly rectified as it was not the kitchen cooking the wrong meal, but rather a case of the food being delivered to the wrong table. However, if we got the wrong dishes, other tables also got the wrong dishes. The Star in the City is one of the smartest places in the city, where people often visit for special occasions, so you might want to be careful with this part of the service.
Our meal was pretty perfect, except for the waiter doing a “plate swap”. I am happy to report.
From the 'grazed' section of the menu we chose the Mulligatawny Shetland mussel fritters. Mainly because it sounded so unusual.
I had eaten Mulligatawny before and remembered it as an Indian lentil soup, so I assumed that the fritters would have a hint of spice. I love mussels, but I've never eaten them with batter on them. This dish came with raita (a cold yogurt dip common in Indian cuisine). However, this one was seasoned with black garlic, which was also novel.
It all sounded intriguing – and when it arrived – the first thing I noticed was the dark color of the dip. The yogurt had turned a deep brown color – more like a thick mushroom soup. It didn't look very appetizing, but if I closed my eyes, it tasted exactly like any creamy dip I've had a million times before. And it was a perfect match for the mussel fritters, with just the right notes of curry seasoning, with small bites of crunchy tenderness. At £6 for a small plate, you can't go wrong.
My friend P chose oak smoked salmon and dill crumpets (£9). It was a perfect option for eating outdoors on a summer night. A hearty, chewy and airy base with plenty of smoked salmon, finished with caviar crème fraîche and pieces of preserved lemon. All the ingredients were top notch, but adding a small bunch of preserved lemon zest was a stroke of genius. The lemon flavor is so rich that it dances in your mouth with every bite.
The Indian theme continued when P chose Corey's tandoori grilled fillet (£18). I would have chosen the same one, but after reviewing the rules I have to order another dish to try more of the menu. My obedient second choice was the 'Loose Birds' Chicken Breast Roast with Garlic and Thyme (£21). This did not disappoint.
Full of flavour, this dish was the kind of dish that required you to lick the plate clean (of course I didn't, I have some standards!). The bone-in chicken was meaty yet juicy, and the rich, glossy gravy and smooth mash further enhanced the essence of autumn. The fava beans sprinkled on top were al dente and looked beautiful, which I liked.
Ms. P said that the curry koli she made, served with daal featuring coconut and summer squash, was the best she had ever eaten. It was her first time topping it with a few pickled kohlrabi pieces, and it was also well received.
For dessert I had the Yorkshire Rhubarb and Stem Ginger Cheesecake (£7) which I halved. I love cheesecake with rhubarb and stem ginger, so this had all the makings of a winner – and it was.
A great end to a great night. They just need to look at their services.
Star in the City, Museum Street, York
W: starinnthecity.co.uk
Phone: 01904 619208
Food: Very good 4.5/5
Service: Needs attention 2.5/5
Atmosphere: Unparalleled 5/5
Value: Worth 4/5
Reviews are independent and meals are paid for by the press.
