On paper, Grön Kafé appears to have all the ingredients for success. Firstly, it's in a prime location in Petergate, next to York's lively cafes, restaurants and shops. Add in the fact that this is the brainchild of Matt Healy, runner-up on BBC's MasterChef: The Professionals, and you've got plenty of celebrity and TV chef credentials. And the cherry on the cake? Grön's menu is completely modern, mostly vegetarian and vegan, with some fish dishes (boiled and cured salmon and crab at the time of our visit), reflecting clean Scandinavian tastes. When I looked it up, I found out that Grön means green in Swedish. The interior walls are lined with greenery and the words “Keep it clean” are spelled out in pink neon.
Don't be discouraged if everything seems horribly healthy. Because, along with noble-sounding halloumi, creepy Buddha bowls, butter beans on toast, and chickpea and avocado salads, there's enough food to stand up to all the clean eaters. Because there are a series of traybakes that contain sugar and calories.
So you could say Glen is the Jekyll and Hyde of York cafes (why not put that up on a neon sign?), seducing us for better and for worse. And that's even better.
There are few things I love more than the feeling of knowing I've earned a treat. And if you're eating a salad or veggie plate for lunch, you really want to overdo it on sugar, spice, and all that post-meal goodness.
After taking a quick look at Glen's menu and admiring the tempting array of cakes on the service counter, I knew Glen would leave with a smile on my face.
And was it done?
First things first. This is a compact place. It's located in the former Fillmore & Union location, which closed last year. If you're familiar with F&U, you'll know what to expect. It's a small space, with only eight covers downstairs and up to 24 upstairs. If it is full, it will be squeezed and you will sit cheek to cheek with your neighbor. It takes the flexibility of a yoga master to move between tables without poking other customers or banging the tables and spilling the herbal tea. Don't say I didn't warn you.
Luckily, when I went on a Sunday lunchtime, the only empty table was a large table for five people. Since it was just me and my teenage daughter there, there was plenty of space to spread out on the available chairs and hang our winter coats and scarves.
For now, Grön is only open during the day. Its menu therefore covers brunch and lunch, including pancakes, toast and egg dishes, as well as open-faced sandwiches and salads, and small plates such as macaroni and cheese and sweet potato and halloumi hash.
It was almost 2pm when I ordered, but unfortunately, the salmon and crab dish I was looking for, as well as the two bottles of fresh juice I was looking for, were sold out.
I wasn't disappointed and had the 'Buddha Bowl' (£7.95) with halloumi and hummus, and also ordered sourdough toast (£1.20). My daughter chose sautéed mushrooms with pickled wild mushrooms, dill hollandaise and poached egg (£7.95).
We grabbed glasses of water from the carafe next to us. We had to clear empty glasses and napkins from the table. The one waiter who also manned the counter downstairs where we ordered was doing a good job of looking after everyone. He later said a colleague called in sick.
There is a small open plan kitchen on the upper floor of the venue. I could hear everything going on there, including the hollandaise being gone.
This was self-evident when our dish arrived, but my daughter didn't seem to mind, claiming the dish was “really delicious”, with particular praise for the pickled mushrooms. The pickles were sharp and tart and added an exotic layer to this brunch favorite.
My salad bowl was artistically appealing with all the items sitting next to each other to create a rainbow of colors. The halloumi was perfectly cooked and I made the school mistake of not eating all three slices right away while they were still warm and soft. When it cools down, it becomes hard and loses its heavenly feel. But it was hard to ignore all the other factors in front of me. My buttered toast begged for a forkful of herby hummus, but another corner was reserved for spicy chickpeas. The cucumber salad and tomato and red onion salsa were palate-cleansing, and fresh watercress added to the dish's nobility.
And also for sweets. As well as a decent decaf flat white (£2.80) and a wonderful loose-leaf peppermint tea (£2.50), we shared a Bakewell slice (£3.25), a vegan brownie and a vegan tiffin bar (both £3.50). All three were excellent, and a special award goes to the brownie, which was topped with Biscoff spread and had a super gooey interior.
Full bellies, we paid our bill of £32.65 and left the glen with a groan. We received a coffee points card and agreed to come back again.
Grön Kafé, 62-68 Low Petergate, York
W: Groncafe.co.uk
Phone: 01904 405943
Food: Delicious 3.5/5 stars
Service: Good 4/5
Ambience: Tight Squeeze 3/5
Value: Fair 3.5/5
Reviews are independent and meals are paid for by the press.
