A lot of things these days make me feel ancient. Not having a TikToK account and having dyed gray hair are just two things. But a visit to Spark:York is also on that list.
Spark certainly needs no introduction, but for those who have been living in a parallel universe for the past two years, it's a makeshift box park in Piccadilly, lined with old shipping containers and home to a number of independent food options. We are gathering. outlet and bar.
Street food is popular here, and with stalls selling everything from South American nachos to Asian ramen, pizza, pasta, burgers and fries, visitors are really spoiled for choice.
There are also several bars, including one that serves two Aperol spritzes for 10 people. I started with that – and ordered a soft drink mix for my teenage friend.
Sure, Spark is trendy and full of millennials and Gen Z, but that doesn't mean anyone who remembers the New Romantics can't walk through its doors. To be honest, during my visit I was the oldest drinker in town (on an Aperol), but so what? It's a fun place to hang out and it's outdoors, so on both counts I rate Spark as an essential part of city life during these difficult times.
Unfortunately, not everyone sees Spark that way.
It's a source of tension in the city, or at least among the keyboard warriors on The Press's letters page. Some people don't like that. Looks too modern. It took too long to install the external cladding (this was part of the planning agreement). There are too many young people there having fun.
Read more: 5 York restaurants everyone will remember nostalgic for
It's a shame that there are so many mixed reviews about Marmite. If you doubt it, put aside your prejudices and check it out, you might find out why so many people like Marmite.
And also to the food. There were 4 of us (I came with 3 teenagers to help me blend in!). For review purposes, I decided to order a variety of dishes from different vendors.
Since reopening after lockdown, a one-way system has been introduced throughout the two-storey site. There are vendors on both levels, so we had to walk a short distance to explore and make our selections from each store's menu (listed on a board outside each container).
All three teens were vegetarians and former vegans. Unsurprisingly, Spark also caters to non-meat eaters admirably. Döner Summer leads the industry with its range of vegan kebabs made with homemade meat alternatives.
Some of Spark:York's eateries
The girls had eaten there before and raved about it, but tonight we decided to go further afield.
G was in the mood for a “hamburger” so we ordered from Sloppy's, which also serves fries. A burger, fries and three Diet Cokes cost £16. The food lived up to the outlet's name. When I took a bite, the burger jumped out of the bun, followed by a slice of bright orange American cheese, like it was trying to break out of a prison. G didn't say much while she was eating it, but she did stop long enough to say, “It's delicious.” The fries were also great, with the paprika covering giving them a smoky edge.
Next up was the nacho box from Dogs' Nose Taqueria (DNT), which prides itself on being the North's first plant-based taco restaurant. The menu is also 100% gluten-free. Soft corn tortillas are made from masa harina flour and pressed to order. Anything less than perfect is turned into tortilla chips.
Spark's DNT Nachos and “Chorizo”
S ordered the 'Chorizo' tray (£9). After a short wait, I stuffed myself with crispy nachos topped with “chorizo” and salsa made from fermented tomatoes, and topped with “cheese” made from fermented tomato juice. We also had slices of guacamole and chili, which were warm and delicious for S. It was exactly how she liked it.
At Mr. E's order, we headed to “Katsuri'' on the second floor, which sells “Asian fusion'' (meaning “victory'' in Japanese). I had the Chili Beef Ramen (£10) here when I visited last month and can wholeheartedly recommend it. The beef cheek melts in your mouth along with al dente broccoli in a dark, rich and spicy soup. delicious.
Tonight, E only had eyes for the bao buns (£10 for 2). These are soft white bread-like steamed rolls that open like clams to reveal many delicious culinary treasures inside. This one had deeply flavored mushrooms and sweet carrots that were slightly charred and caramelized. The verdict was sacred.
I had eaten RAD's pizza before in Spark (which was also delicious), but wanted to try something different, so I stopped at Aroma 2, where an Italian chef was running the ship by himself. I did. The menu was simple: three pasta dishes, one gnocchi, light bites like bruschetta, zucchini flowers, arancini, and a selection of breads.
I chose the gnocchi (£8) with tomato and sausage ragu.
Aroma 2 gnocchi
It was served in a small brown cardboard bowl and we agreed to top it generously with grated parmesan and sprinkle with black pepper before bringing it to the table.
The sauce was something really special. It's rich and tangy, but it's also meaty, with bits of mashed, slow-cooked sausage like the best ragus. If I were to eat it again, I would ask for the sauce and pasta. The gnocchi was great – little oval bombs of thick, squidgy potatoes – but in a showdown, I always chose the spaghetti.
That's it. Satisfied, the teens left for more fun and I returned home with cocoa and slippers.
Spark: York
17-21 Piccadilly, York
W: sparkyoke.org
Food: Delicious 4/5
Atmosphere: Fun 5/5
Service: Excellent 5/5
Value: Average 4/5
Reviews are independent and meals are paid for by the press.
