The word on the street (or at least from a friend who is one of the best home cooks I know) is that this little restaurant (a stone throw from the city centre) serves York's most delicious Indian food.
I admitted that I had passed Masala crafts (there are only a few doors from the press office at Warumgate, previously a Penny sandwich shop).
I knew it had moved from King Street in 2023, but never thought about jumping into a new base for a meal.
If so, I might have been seduced before the conversation with that fateful and fruitful friend.
I think you've found your new favorite Indian restaurant in York!
Over the years there have been several candidates – very early and long-term romance with Indian gardens in the fishing industry. Some great dates with the Mumbai Lounge in Fosgate. On-off romance with Goodramate's Bengal Brasserie. An occasional cheating with the Viceroy of Mongate. A one-night stand with a coconut lagoon on Clarence Street (I first experienced the dosa pleasure), and finally, a short-lived crash from Kalpacavadi at Fosgate (I couldn't get enough of stuffed sea bass with masala potatoes and curry dip). I'm also nursing a broken heart after an unexpected farewell with a cat pyjama on Cumberland Street.
York doesn't have a shortage of places to get good Indian food. However, the masala craft is a little different.
I'm soft in this place – I've been twice in a three-week period.
First: This is not your traditional Indian restaurant. Certainly, you can order from a small amount of curry (“Jalfrezi, Balti, Madras, Karhi, Korma, etc” reads the menu.
Instead of worrying, there are many more. And I insist on offerings that are more interesting.
They are the restaurant's name, “Indian Street Kitchen.” The focus of cooking is replicating the glove that you might grab on the go in India.
They liked the menu on one sheet and had options for every appetite and budget. From a selection of stuffed Indian breads (£6.50 to £12) to a 16-pound tandoori mixed grill, stuffing and bread were thrown between £3.50 and £5.
Once inside, you treat your meal as something like Indian tapas, choosing to share a variety of small plates and starters, or going more traditionally, loading up a combo of curry, rice and naan.
My recommended dish is Fish Stir-fried (£7.50), the lightest and freshest fish you can dream of. Samosa Chat (£7.50), a satisfying mix of rustic and tangy flavours. It is massaged with a Punjabi lamb (£11.90), a generous cubes of tender meat, and a slightly sweet sauce with a thick, shiny finish. Railway potato curry (£9.50) melted in the mouth with light spices and very flavorful. And the Baingan Bharta (£9.95) is a smokey plate of overgin, thoroughly more silky and slowly roasted. Vegetarians are well served.
A bowl of torn pieces of steamed regular rice (£4) and perfectly cooked tandoori roti (£3.50) was an essential accompaniment and was perfect for all the scoops and mops that come with an Indian dinner.
Delicious, but not in the same league, the Kauri 95 (£5.25) was a coated cauliflower starter that was a bit stocky to our taste. The Baltic curry was good but I would recommend taking more adventures on the visit.
A great pick is the “combo grill.” Choose from chicken tikka, tandoori shrimp, paneer tikka, lamb chop, salmon tikka, or tandoori mixed grill (£8-£16).
I've tried both the chicken tikka and tandoori shrimp combos, and the latter, especially the jumbo shrimp, which is just charging but tender, meaty and juicy, has them again.
Another fascinating dish is the yogurt chart boom (£6). This is just as beautiful as the photo. A small hollow bowl of light, crispy puffs (Quavers) are filled with chilly sweet yogurt, chart masala, potatoes and onions. The bite is heavenly flavor.
The restaurant, which seats just 28, features a small, casual cafe that looks like a smart restaurant. Service was slow on the first visit, but quick on the second visit (it was quiet too). The orange and blue interior cast the nightclub Viverite, giving the photo a strange blue shade.
There is a lively drink menu featuring not only wine, beer, cider and soft drinks, but also cocktails.
Try the Mongoza Mango Beer (£5.20). It's fruity, refreshing, and another thing to love.
Fact File:
Masala Craft, Indian Street Kitchen, York, Walmgate
T: 01904 927934
W: masalacraft.co.uk
Our Verdict:
Food: Delicious with some surprises on the menu
Service: Mix, our first visit is slower and our second visit is faster!
Atmosphere: Casual – More cafes than restaurants
Value: Good – Price for all budgets
Reviews are independent and meals paid by the media
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